Kelly The Kitchen Kop

Part 2: How to Make Delicious and Nutritious Homemade Stock / Bone Broth – from Chef Glenn at Reds on the River

January 23, 2009 · 26 comments

If you missed PART 1 – there you’ll find information on all the HEALTH BENEFITS of homemade stock/bone broth.

Today, in PART 2, before we talk about HOW to make a good, healthy stock, first I want to tell you about our favorite restaurant: Reds on the River.  (Hang with me, you’ll see where the connection is…and by the way, if you’re bored, don’t miss the bottom of this post where I share all sorts of somewhat-related nonsense.)

Reds is a bit pricey, so we can’t go often, but as is usually the case, you get what you pay for.  I absolutely LOVE how they make everything from scratch (no nasty “soup base” in their dishes), and a good share of their food comes from a local organic farm! Last fall I went to a class at “Red’s Cooking School” on making stock, and Chef Glenn gave me his OK to share what I learned with you.

Chef Glenn from Reds on the River in Rockford, Michigan

He’s a chef after all, so understandably, his primary concern is taste.  But what I found interesting is that the methods he uses for the best flavor in his recipes, are often the same methods traditional cooks used for best nutrition.  (Whether they knew it or not – usually food was prepared in certain ways just because that was how they were taught.)

Delicious AND Nutritious

So first I’ll tell you what I learned from Chef Glenn about making delicious stocks, then I’ll tell you more about how to make your stocks extra nutritious too.

WHAT I LEARNED FROM CHEF GLENN ABOUT MAKING DELICIOUS STOCKS: (my comments are in italics)

  • For beef bones (all bones?), first put them on a cookie sheet in the oven on 400* until they brown up some (don’t let them burn) – and then throw them into the pot to make your stock – this adds extra wonderful flavors.
  • A “white” broth is made without roasting the bones first, and a “brown” or “dirty” broth is made by roasting the bones.
  • Veal bones make the best broth.  (I personally didn’t notice a difference with my veal bones vs. regular beef bones, but he makes the reduction sauce for my favorite dish there, London Broil, with half red wine and half veal stock.  It is positively dreamy.)
  • The celery, onions and carrots you add to your stock are called a Mirepoix.  Best proportions are 2 parts onion, 1 part celery, 1 part carrots.  These should be a part of ALL stocks.
  • Use about 1/3 of a pot of bones, 1/3 of a pot of the above veggies, and then fill up the pot with cold water.
  • Cold water helps extract the flavors as it heats up slow.
  • Vegetable stocks take 1-2 hours, fish stocks 45 minutes (any longer and it gets cloudy), and veal & chicken stock cooks overnight. (Note: Sally Fallon says, 2 hours simmering is enough to extract flavors and gelatin from fish broth. Larger animals take longer – all day for broth made from chicken, turkey or duck and overnight for beef broth.”)
  • Making a flavorful soup (or any recipe) is all about layering the flavors.  A way to do this is by first roasting in the oven, or sauteing on the stove in butter, any of the vegetables you will be using in your soup.  (More on layering flavors from Chef Glenn – this link also has a great recipe!)
  • Butter carries flavors across your tongue.  (No wonder I love it so much!  See the link below about how butter is not the bad guy many have been led to believe it is.)

HOW TO MAKE YOUR STOCK AS NUTRITIOUS AS IT IS DELICIOUS:

  • Never use aluminum stock pots – aluminum has been strongly linked to health problems.  (More about that in a future post.  For now you can Google it if you’re curious.)
  • Don’t be afraid of using sea salt in your cooking. Even some with high blood pressure are able to use sea salt with no problems.  And good quality sea salt is full of beneficial minerals.
  • TRY to use good quality meat and bones to make your stock.  When animals are raised and fed well (grass-fed is best), it’s a no-brainer that their meat and bones will have more nutrients.  Chef Glenn may disagree with the grass-fed part, because I think they even advertise that their beef is grain-fed.  I believe this is known as being very flavorful.  But good flavor can be found in grass-fed as well, and it’s MUCH better nutritionally.
  • Don’t be afraid of butter! This one doesn’t relate to broth so much, but when Chef Glenn said in the class that he uses a lot of butter in his cooking (which is one reason why he’s a great chef!), he said it a bit apologetically.  Butter isn’t the bad guy it has been made out to be.  Don’t let what “they” have told you about butter and other healthy fats stop you – always use healthy fats in your kitchen!  In big restaurant kitchens, cost may prevent them from using only healthy fats, but in your own kitchen it is a MUST for good health.  (Read the bolded links for more info.)
  • The best, most beneficial stocks (nutritionally) are those that, after cooling overnight in the fridge, have the consistency of jello – so don’t freak out if you see this – it’s a good thing!  Read more about this in Part 1.
  • You should always add a splash of raw vinegar to your stock when you begin boiling, as this will draw more minerals out of the bones.
  • Filtered water is best.

WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR STOCK:

So you’ve got your quality bones, your Mirepoix, your splash of vinegar and water in your pot.  When you’re done boiling (see times above), strain it well.  Chef Glenn uses a very fine strainer for a clear broth, but if you don’t have a fine strainer, your broth just won’t be as clear – not a big deal in my kitchen, but for some it’s important.  After it cools, freeze in baggies or in ice cube trays – never put hot foods near plastic!  (After the cubes freeze, toss them into baggies for smaller amounts to use when sauteing veggies, or in anything you want a little extra flavor and nutrition – I can’t remember who gave me that tip, but thank you!)  Now use your stock for soups, stews, when cooking rice, with noodles, or anytime you’re making a white sauce.  (Sometimes if I don’t have enough stock for my recipe, I’ll also add some organic stock to it from the store.)

WHAT DID I MISS? Do you have more tips to share about making stock, or other ways you like to use it?  Comment below!

  • More about how to make stock and details on making chicken noodle soup
  • I recently updated my French Onion Soup post with info from Chef Glenn – he gave some good tips on making it as tasty as they do at Reds.  (I love how he’s so open about how they do things there!)
  • A useful Kitchen Tip from Jeanne for making vegetable stock
  • OH, here’s more good scoop I missed from Cheeseslave, who also just did a post on chicken stock – good timing!

BECAUSE I LIKE TO RAMBLE ON AND ON…

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{ 26 comments… read them below or add one }

1

jeanne 01.23.09 at 7:49 am

Okay Kelly,
A couple of thoughts . . . I remember in a nutrion/ cooking class at college learning about roasting your beef bones before making broth, but I had forgotten this step. I am sure this would make my beef broth rich, darker, and bring out another “layer” of flavor.
Also, I can’t believe I never new about adding the splash of vinegar! (Although my kids loved to experiment and put a chicken bone in vinegar and then in a day or two it turns rubbery, I never made the connection that the vinegar allows all the “good stuff” in the bones to leech out!).
A tip about straining your broth, put cheeseclothe in your large holed colander to catch all of the bits and pieces, so your broth stays clear.
Last thought, when I am doing chicken or turkey broth, I always throw in the neck bone and the organ meat. When the broth is strained I chop up the organ meat and it is a treat for our cat.

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2

Diane 01.23.09 at 10:02 am

Great post! I find I tend to be doing more poultry stocks than beef but when I get around to doing another beef stock I’ll be sure to roast the bones first. I also like adding leeks in combination with the onions And call me wierd, but I throw in a few astragalus root slices as well. Astragalus root helps nourish the immune system. Great for this time of year when all I hear are people coughing around me.

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3

Kelly 01.23.09 at 10:52 am

Jeanne, what a lucky cat you have, and a healthy one, too! :) Thanks for the ideas.

Diane, I’ve never even seen astragulus root, but if I did, I’d take your advice and toss them in!

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4

Jill 01.23.09 at 11:55 am

I always add lots more to my giant pot – usually a whole head of garlic, a handful of peppercorns, maybe some parsely or other herbs sitting around (thyme is great), LOTS of leaves from the celery, sometimes a handful of apple peels. Leeks are great, so are green onions (esp the tops). Never add peppers or broccoli or cabbage!
I cook my chicken, turkey or beef stock overnight or for 8-10 hours.

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5

Laura 01.23.09 at 1:17 pm

Does anyone know if you can cook a stock for too long?

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6

Judy 01.23.09 at 4:38 pm

I like to skim off the fat early in the long cooking process. I forget why, but I like to know the fat hasn’t been cooking all night. I store this fat for frying hamburger or other lean meats. I put it in a jar and scoop/chip out what I need. I’ve tried an experiment with broth. I drained the bones and added cold water which I cooked again for hours and let it reduce a bit. It was very gelatinous. I’ve tried this 7 times on the same beef or lamb bones and got jell. I’m wondering if there is anything un-nutritious about this…..like maybe you begin to destroy something. The gelatin becomes less flavorful as I go on so I was thinking I’d use it for a jelled dessert or just add it back into a soup. I don’t always do this, but it was a science experiment.

-Judy

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7

Kelly 01.23.09 at 4:59 pm

Jill, apple peels? Hmmm, I’ll have to try that!

Laura, good question, I hope someone else knows, because I don’t have a clue! I doubt it would be harmful though…?

Judy, what an interesting experiment! I have trouble getting gel usually on the 2nd time around!

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8

Kelly 01.26.09 at 11:03 am

I was just curious, how does everyone cook their stock overnight and actually sleep without worrying about burning the house down? I have a gas range, which I love, but I would not feel comfortable leaving it on unattended all night. Any tips?

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9

Kim 01.26.09 at 11:46 am

Nourishing Traditions says up to 72 hours for beef stock. Also, herbs should be thrown in for just the last 15 minutes (herbs are delicate and CAN be overdone…sounds like bones CAN’T). Mine was on electric stove on very low all weekend (while we were out and while we were sleeping). I just make sure there’s nothing flammable anywhere near the stovetop and have never had a problem. (My firefighter brother may have a fit tho…haven’t asked him what he thinks!)

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10

Kelly 01.27.09 at 6:55 pm

Kelly & Kim, what I do is just cool it down a bit before putting it in the fridge overnight, or if it’s winter, I’ll set it on the deck overnight (covered). Then I get it going again in the morning. :)

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11

Diane 01.27.09 at 9:14 pm

Kelly,
astragalus root is found in herb stores. Mountainroseherbs.com is where I bought mine.

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12

whimsy 02.11.09 at 7:00 pm

I like to roast my vegetables with my bones. I keep a container in my freezer and toss in all my onion, carrot, and celery ends and pieces. Then use them up in my broth (or stock… i haven’t read the different yet) :)

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13

Kelly 02.11.09 at 9:54 pm

Whimsy, toward the bottom of part 1 you’ll see a definition with the difference between stock & broth! :)

FYI: I just tried following you on Twitter, but the link at your site isn’t working.

Kelly

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14

Katie @ Kitchen Stewardship 04.13.09 at 2:53 pm

Kelly,
What do you think about cooking liver in the stock? I’m afraid my family will revolt if I serve liver and onions, but I have some in the freezer already…and I wonder if I can cook it in my stock to add nutrients and maybe flavor (?) and then chip up the meat really small and add it in tiny portions to ground beef things like tacos or spaghetti. Anyone have any comments?

Katie @ Kitchen Stewardship’s last blog post..Monday Mission: Homemade Yogurt, the Easy Way

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15

Kelly 04.13.09 at 9:09 pm

Katie, I’m afraid to try it, you try it first and let me know if you get it by your kids!!!

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16

Katie @ Kitchen Stewardship 04.15.09 at 11:46 pm

OK, phase one: liver in stock = can’t tell anything scary is in there! Made some Yum-O beef/vegetable/barley soup tonight and got rave reviews. I’ve rescued the liver from the stock…and tasted it — first organ meat tasting for me!! — and it’s not nasty, although the texture is iffy at best. I’ll chop it with my food chopper and freeze in 1/3 cup portions, I think. I’ll stop back after we have tacos! :)

I imagine that some super-duper nutrients from the liver must be in the stock…right? If so, this is a good way to go to pump up the stock nutrition and use liver w/o getting kicked out of the home. ??

Katie @ Kitchen Stewardship’s last blog post..The Best Scrambled Eggs Ever

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17

Kelly 04.16.09 at 1:58 am

Katie, that’s a good question…seems like it must provide extra whopping nutrients to have liver in the stock, but I’ve never tried it!

You’re going to try liver with your tacos??? Oh boy, I don’t know about that one…let me know if you need a place to stay. :)

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18

Katie @ Kitchen Stewardship 04.20.09 at 2:01 pm

Phase two: I’ve now hidden liver in two different meals, spaghetti and pepper steak. I used my food chopper to chop the liver into bits, pea sized and smaller. It looked like cat food. Yuk. Not something you let your family get a visual on. I put about 1/4 cup into jarred spaghetti sauce with some homemade meatballs, and since the meatballs fell apart a little, there were chunks of meat throughout. No one noticed the difference! I added some to leftover pepper steak (meat and sauce), and it also wasn’t detected. I froze the rest, chopped, in ice cube trays, awaiting my next trickery. I’m sure you could put it in meatloaf or any casserole without anyone knowing; I think I’ll try it in turkey burgers tomorrow!

Another experiment: I read somewhere in the blogosphere recently about someone who make chicken stock, then used the bones over and over and got gelatin every time in the stock. Since this was my first go at beef stock, and the bones are not as cheap as chicken bones (free with chicken!), I thought I’d try it. I strained the stock to cool and put the bones right back into the pot, just covered them with water and vinegar, and gave it another overnight simmer. There was actually *some* gelatin content, although not nearly as thick as my first batch. I threw in some veggies and will use it as filler stock, in recipes or with rice or something, but I don’t think the flavor is good enough to actually use it as a base for soup. Interesting experiment, anyway!

Thanks for the offer of housing — glad I’m not kicked out yet!!

Katie @ Kitchen Stewardship’s last blog post..Monday Mission: Eat More Eggs

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19

Kelly 04.20.09 at 3:19 pm

Okaaaay, you’re getting me more motivated to try this…my liver is in the freezer waiting for me!

BTW, I never get as much gelatin the 2nd time around, either, but enough to make it worth it on the 2nd go ’round – would never try 3 though…

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20

Kelly the Kitchen Kop 05.17.09 at 11:09 pm

Coming soon: a post from Katie (above) with the whole scoop on her sneaky liver experiment! (If you’re coming across this comment a week or two later, use the search button and put in “sneak liver” and you’ll find it.)

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21

Mark 06.17.09 at 4:32 am

There is alot to cover so I will just start at the top and work why way down posting responses to some of the questions. Jeanne very good point about using cheese cloth (unbleached) to help strain out the impurities that are left behind from the bones/meat etc. One other point that I would like to add is try using a chinoise collander (w/a stainless steel mesh) not plastic as a straining tool as well. Within the first few hours of cooking a stock you will have a crusty film (impurities) that form on the top should be skimmed and discarded. If the impurities are not skimmed off the stock with get very cloudy and have an off, almost muddy taste to it. Important step. Once the stock has been skimmed and the stock is (simmering 165 F-180 F, not boiling) then it might be a good thyme to add it other items such as (from previous posts) apple peels, herbs, root vegetables etc.

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22

Mark 06.17.09 at 4:44 am

One good point about simmering stocks overnight is to not cover them with a lid. This would help prevent the stocks from spilling over the sides of the pot and possibily causing the liquid to burn. We have a gas top as well with a simmer setting on the knob. One thing also to look out when simmering overnight is to make sure the stocks stay out of the danger zone of 40 F-145 F or when cooling them down. I have down batches of stock that have cooked for a consistent 72 hours straight. A good clean up tip: Line your stove top liners with heavy duty aluminum foil.

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23

Mark 06.17.09 at 4:48 am

Katie, I have found meatloaf as a good source of hiding liver in it.

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24

Mark 06.17.09 at 4:52 am

A good way of skimming off the fat that has been left behind once your stock has cooled enough to put in the fridge is to leave it in overnight and the fat will harden up enough that you can lift it right off the top of the stock.

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25

Mark 06.17.09 at 4:57 am

According to Nourishing Traditions cookbook Sally recommends add bones (roasted) to cold filtered water and add vineger to them and allowed to soak while you are preparing the mirepox. The combination of the cold water and vineger helps open up the cells of the bones.

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26

Kelly 06.19.09 at 10:38 am

Mark, thanks for all the good info, but next time it might be easier on you if you just put it all into one comment, with separate paragraphs. Just a suggestion.

Thanks again!
Kelly

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